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July 3, 1998 11:30pm
Another
night on the wall last night after a very full day.
Our
drive to Trinidad was fascinating. Once out of
Cienfuegos, the countryside turned immediately
rural. Small communities of tiny homes with
people sitting outside were separated by
stretches of lush fields and wooded areas. |
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Occasionally
the road moved to the coast and children played
happily in the surf. Everyone we
passed eyed us with interest, waived, whistled or
shouted to us. It's quite an experience to
attract so much attention wherever we go. Most of
the people I speak with have never met an
American!
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Entering
Trinidad was like entering a different time. Most
buildings are between one and two hundred years
old and have had only what repair scarce
materials will allow. The Cubans are ingenious in
these innovations to keep what they have working
under impossible circumstances. The streets
of the oldest section of Trinidad are still
stone, not bricks or shaped stones, but river
rock painstakingly set in rough pathways between
concrete and mud structures.
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As
we wound through the maze of crooked streets an official
looking man holding a sign that read "Stop -
Official Auto Park" stepped in front of us. He
directed us to a place near a wall and promised to
protect our car for one dollar.
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He
struck up a conversation with me and asked if we
wanted food or a place to stay. He eagerly asked
me to follow him to a nearby house to show me a
"Paladares" (a private home that will
prepare meals). While Chris finished with the
car, I entered an old home with a narrow spiral
staircase to the roof. I climbed the spiral
staircase to a sweeping view of the city and the
ocean beyond. |
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Photo
Courtesy of
C. Pritchard |
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In
an alley courtyard behind the house were two
tables and a makeshift kitchen and grill. We
accepted an offer for lunch and returned an hour
later to friendly smiles, warm hospitality and
the best meal we've had since leaving Grand
Cayman. |
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Our
hosts in their "Kitchen" |
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The
"Restaurant" |
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Lunch
was two huge lobster tails each, canned beans and
carrots, rice and beans, beer, coffee and mangos
for dessert. The price was $7 each and a variety
of cigars were offered. We chose a favorite of
ours, Monte Cristo Numero 4 which were authentic
and wonderful. We purchased two boxes for ten
dollars each. |
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Photo
Courtesy of C. Pritchard |
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We
walked about Trinidad and hired a horse carriage
and driver for a tour which included a small
pottery and one of the many Partigas cigar
factories. There we spoke with the workers who
rolled us fresh cigars to enjoy there. Again, I'm
amazed at the friendliness and generosity of the
Cuban people. They have little, but offer what
little they have. |
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Photo
Courtesy of C. Pritchard |
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We
left Trinidad to the nearby harbor town of
Casilda to secure a dock for next week for our
voyage to the keyes and located a compressor to
refill our scuba tanks. |
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A
"resident" behind the hotel at Casilda |
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The
harbor at Casilda |
We
decided to drive to the mountains behind Trinidad to look
for a waterfall we've heard of. Eventually we came to a
large hospital which I believe is for terminal patients
and followed a dirt road to a small house. Here, the
residents told us the waterfall was only a twenty minute
walk through the jungle.
As we began the walk we
descended further and further down the mountains on a
very poor, steep, rocky foot path. More than an hour
later, we finally came upon the cascade, pouring water
into a green pool which for a short while we had to
ourselves.
With
dark only an hour away, we stayed only a short while. The
climb back up the mountain in the jungle heat was the
most tortuous hike of my life. We could only climb one
hundred yards at a time before we had to stop and gasp
for breath. We left puddles of sweat every time we
stopped and were forced into motion again after only a
minute or two when the swarms of mosquitoes found us.
Finally
near the car, an old woman called to me and invited us to
her home for a rest. She served us glass after glass of
ice cold mango juice which refreshed us far better than
the hot jugs of water in the car which earlier, the mere
thought of had provided me the motivation to keep moving
up the mountain.
As
we left the area, we asked directions of several people
to Cienfuegos which were conflicting and we ended up
completely lost. We passed through one small town after
another with people pointing and waving to us to come to
their home for dinner.
We
finally found our way back to Cienfuegos late in the
evening having traveled over one hundred kilometers out
of the way.
After
a shower and change of clothes we joined our local
friends for the social life of the wall. We took turns
running across the road for beers from "El
Rapido", a Cuban form of a fast food restaurant and
enjoyed the songs of a guitarist we met several nights
before.
© 1998
John Petrak
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